A Side Note About Exotic Salt
When I said I "cook with" Maldon sea salt, I did not mean that I toss it in the water with my pasta, or use it to brine my turkey. Sea salt is a finisher--you put a little of it in when you're done cooking and ready to serve, or toss it in cold dishes. If your recipe calls for salt at the start of the process--though with a few exceptions, I'm agin' it--use kosher or ordinary table salt. A box of sea salt should last you at least six months, unless you're serving a crowd every night. Some of my correspondents were a tad confused on this, so I thought it was worth clarifying before some unhappy soul tossed three tablespoons of fleur de sel into their pasta water, and came looking for my head.
If Megan McArdle didn't have to impress the world with her exclusive tastes, she wouldn't have to write such a silly post. She could do what everyone else does--use ordinary kosher salt, like Alton Brown tells them to, and save the exotic salts for table use. But no, she must use Maldon for cooking and an even more exclusive salt for the table, and then lie* and say that she meant Maldon for table, not cooking. She's like Carrie Bradshaw in a tutu, aping the haute couture set but not part of it, and looking ridiculous in the process. It is unnecessary, futile and an enormous waste of human energy.
*I must leave open the possibility that she did not mean "for most cooking" when she said it, but if she is just making everything up as she goes along, that is useful to know as well.